I think it’s about time we made a post! And there is no better way to start than with the incredible Dabbous. Going to admit something here: Dabbous was one of the main factors that motivated us to start this blog - instantly, that’s saying something.
Lilian had made a 6:30pm dinner reservation for the restaurant for Tuesday 10th April. We hadn’t really read much about it beforehand, as many foodie blogs would admit to doing before going to dinner. In fact… I don’t even know why we chose that restaurant when we were making our booking… two months ago was it? Perhaps Lily will be able to enlighten us on this! Anyway, save the odd google search, we pretty much went with open minds; all we knew was that there was, and indeed still exists, a hype surrounding Dabbous – a big one.
Upon arriving, the exterior already stood out as something out of the ordinary – a huge steel door guarded the entrance to the restaurant. I didn’t really know what I was supposed to do when I got there to be honest… Was the door automatic? Is it meant to be ajar? Maybe the restaurant is still closed?!!! I pulled the door open and was greeted by the house team. They were polite and welcoming; I instantly felt at ease. As a student, it’s not often that I go to high-end restaurants (though this is certainly changing!), so I, admittedly, was a little bit apprehensive beforehand. They cured that irrational fear!
So having settled down, Lily and I observed the restaurant’s interior. It was industrial… different. Forgive us for the phrase, but we somewhat felt that it was like “Allsaints (the clothing brand) in restaurant form”. Excusing the stigma attached to Allsaints, we had made the comparison intending to emphasise the restaurant’s ‘alternativism’ and ‘coolness’.
We initially went intending to get the tasting menu, a 7 course offer for £49. However, we decided it’d be better to go a la carte and share – giving us a wider taste of the food on offer. Whilst we were deciding what food to order, we got a bottle of Rose wine and were also given a cute brown paper bag of freshly cooked rye bread with hand-whipped butter.
I went with:
- English asparagus, virgin rapeseed oil mayonnaise, meadowsweet and hazelnuts (starter)
- Coddled free range hen egg with woodland mushrooms and smoked butter (starter)
- Jersey royal new potatoes in warm buttermilk (starter)
- Barbecued Iberico pork, savoury acorn praline, turnip tops, homemade apple vinegar (main)
- Chocolate and virgin hazelnut oil ganache, basil moss, shepps’ milk ice-cream (dessert)
and Lilian went with:
- English asparagus, virgin rapeseed oil mayonnaise, meadowsweet and hazelnuts (starter)
- Beef tartar with cigar oil, whiskey and rye (starter)
- Charred salmon with elderflower, spring onions and almonds (main)
- Fresh milk curds, black sugar, rose petals (dessert)
The bill came to £56.35 each, including the bottle of wine.
I’ll leave it to Lily’s post to give a comprehensive review of her dishes.
Starters
First, we had the asparagus. It was a dish you ate with your hands, our waiter informed us. At first, we were a bit surprised – but in a good way, perhaps intrigued is the better word. Who knew you’d be eating with your hands at a fine-dining restaurant! Nevertheless, we were practically (literally) drooling at this point, so we just went ahead and used our damn hands. The asparagus was absolutely delicious. You eat it by dipping it first into the mayonnaise and then into the hazelnuts… for what it was, you would not expect that much flavour to come from such a simple dish. The flavours from every ingredient could be tasted, but it wasn’t overwhelming in the slightest.
Next, the coddled hen egg. This was a revelation. It was presented in an egg shell which was in a nest. To the eye, extremely appealing. The taste certainly lived up to it. It was creamy with a hint of smokiness. You could taste the mushrooms and they were cooked just perfectly – soft but with a bite to it, flavoursome but not undercooked or overdone to the point of lost flavour. I tell you, I was already 95% content at this point – compliments to the chef, 15 minutes in. Let me add here that the food came in good time. Not so quick that you felt like you were being rushed, but not so long that you lost your hunger by the time it came. More points for the restaurant here.
The royal potatoes didn’t disappoint either. I must admit though, by the time I got to them I was already feeling like my need for a starter had been fulfilled – so I didn’t savour them as much as I would’ve, had I ordered less. The buttermilk was rich and the flavour was piercing to the tongue – again, sensational cooking that brought out the flavours of the ingredients.
Main
Now, to the main. Oh my goodness. I don’t even know where to begin. The texture of the meat was simply perfect; soft, chewy, but not jaw-achingly so, and smooth on the palette. That savory acorn praline? It honest to God pains me to write this and not have any to nibble on right now. It complimented the pork perfectly and added a soft crunch to the bite. The turnip tops toned down the richness of the dish and again added another dimension to the bite. What a perfect main dish. I couldn’t have asked for, or expected, anything more.
Dessert
The ganache was lovely. Like all the other dishes, it was a fine-tuned balance between richness of flavour and a touch of palette-cleansing with the ice cream.
The service
As I’ve said before, I’m not one that has been to many high-end restaurants, so I admittedly was expecting the service to be very formal and a little bit intimidating. Dabbous was nothing like that! The service was casual in a welcoming, ‘make yourself as comfortable as possible’ sort of way, but it wasn’t sloppy or unprofessional. Our waiter was absolutely lovely, and made us laugh and jolly throughout the whole dinner. Gosh, this is a bit embarrassing, but he must have realised how excited we were to eat there as soon as we got that ‘cute brown paper bag’ of rye bread… get this: he gave us another bag. Seriously. After we had finished the first bag he said “I see you girls liked the bread! Have some more!” All this with a wide-smile. And then guess what. When we requested the bill he said “hey! I know for a fact you love the rye bread so… I’m going to give you some to take home!” Which he did upon handing us the receipt. Oh my god I don’t know whether to feel mortified and embarrassed at our eagerness or delighted to the point of happy tears with how nice the waiter was. Maybe… Both.
At this point we were quite… let’s say, ‘merry’ from the bottle of wine so we went downstairs to the bar to have some cocktails – this we’ll post about another time… positive words all round, and you can never have too many positive words so it’s best to leave it to separate post before I go exceedingly over the word limit with this one.
Dabbous is a shining example of what the food industry has to offer. The food and general dining experience is art, and Lily and I couldn’t agree enough on just how much dedication and thought the chef must have gone into when creating the dishes. For the few fine-dining restaurants I have been to, Dabbous has outshone them all and has set a very high barrier which I honestly don’t see any other restaurant defeating any time soon. A week on and I am definitely still reeling with delight from dining there. The hype surrounding Dabbous is a well-deserved one, and I can only wait in eager anticipation and excitement to visit it again soon. Applause applause applause and infinite compliments to the chef.
- Angeline.